Hiking Scotland Travel

The West Highland Way; Day One. Milngavie to Drymen

West highland way

Nerves and excitement.

Today was my first day on the West Highland Way, a 96-mile trail in the beautiful Scotish highlands!  I dragged myself out of bed at the crack of dawn and took the train to Manchester Piccadilly.  A coffee and a 30-minute wait later I was on the Pennine Express, Glasgow bound.  From Glasgow I took another train to Milngavie.  A short walk through the town center, and a quick pit stop to buy some sunglasses (hadn’t banked on Scotland being so wonderfully sunny!) I was ready to begin!

A journey of 96 miles must begin with a single step.

West Highland Way

After literally DAYS of planning and many SECONDS spent thinking about this trip I was ready to get started.  I took a quick selfie next to the ‘West Highland Way’ monument and ambled under the barrier marking the official start of my 96-mile journey.  It was pretty unceremonious actually.  The next few steps saw me through a carpark, past some overexerted wheely bins and finally onto a well-tended woodland path.  I set off a quite a pace, it being 3 pm and having 10 miles to bash out to reach the sanctuary of Drymen Campsite.  I marched on, music blaring in my headphones, waving my walking poles about to the beat.  After almost taking out a rather stealthy runner, I decided to somewhat calm my waving limbs and get on with the job in hand; walking.  All I had to do now was walk.  For the next few days, it was just me and the 96 miles of the West Highland Way.

Start of the West Highland Way

Monkeys on the West Highland Way?!

As I walked my mind also rambled on, nothing new there.  I have what Buddhists call a ‘Monkey Mind’.  My inner voice speaks a never-ending stream of thoughts, some relevant, some not, sometimes many different subjects all at one time, battling for my attention.  In the first few miles of this journey, my little monkeys spoke of a hundred different things; ‘Is this the right path?  Did I lock my car?  Hey!  Look at that tree!  I wonder what the weather is like in Mongolia?  Maybe I should try to pass an A-Level.  Does the dog miss me?  Will I get to the campsite before dark?  That time I crashed my scooter in Thailand.  If I wild camp, will I shit my pants when a rabbit hops by my tent at 3 am?  Probably.  Hey, remember that one time at band camp?’

How did I end up here? (A question I often find myself asking!)

To answer this I have to take you back, literally 2 or 3 whole weeks back.  (Hey, 2 or 3 whole weeks is a long time when you’re a live by the seat of your pants kinda girl!)  When I came home from my big trip in 2014 I had vowed to spend some time exploring my Homeland.  Spending so long in Thailand had made me appreciate where I was from, my upbringing, my British passport and the freedom it grants me.  Having met people who hadn’t been as lucky as I had, I realized that I should be more grateful.  The UK is BEAUTIFUL, it took 2 years of living 6000 miles away from it to really appreciate that.  I considered this on my flight home and vowed there and then that I would spend the next few years getting to know the country I call home.  But, you know how it is, the lure of distant kingdoms, the pull of exotic lands, plus Ryanair and their bloody £9.99 flights!

I need an adventure!

In 2017 the UK was still on my to do list.  Something has definitely changed in my being this year and rather than just traveling to new countries and seeing the sights, I have found myself needing more of an adventure element to each trip.  I recently discovered a podcast called Tough Girl Challenges, where the host, Sarah Williams, interviews amazing women that have accomplished awesome challenges all over the world.  Listening to these interviews just fed the fire inside me.  I posted in the Tough Girl Challenges Facebook group asking for any advice on how I could jump start my new adventurous way of travel, and someone told me that I should go and hike the West Highland Way.  I thought it was a good idea, so I booked a train ticket, spent enough money for a 2 week holiday in Barbados on camping equipment, and off I went!


Open your eyes, Kat!

I walked for over an hour before I really started to look around and take note of my surroundings.  As I crested a hill and began the descent into the loch splatted valley below, my legs stopped moving and my fingers spontaneously plucked the headphones from my ears.  ‘Jeezeeus!!’, I howled at one of the most amazing scenes I’d ever seen.  Scotland really is incredibly beautiful.  I sent the monkeys to their cage and promised myself that I would take more notice.  I tried to think of words to describe what I was seeing, after a few hours of contemplation I realized there weren’t any.  If you were to correctly describe the beauty of this part of the world, you would require a whole new dictionary.  I tried to make some up, but it was useless.  I gave up and aimed my feet in the direction of the next thistle.

Follow the thistles.

The direction of the West Highland Way is marked with a thistle symbol, they are every few hundred feet in most parts, the trail is very easy to follow.  A map and compass are not necessary, which is lucky as I had either and even if I did, wouldn’t know how to use them.

‘Someone is following me’, said the monkey.

After passing the first of many lochs I came to a road crossing and a completely different type of terrain.  The Way now moved onto open moorland.  I noticed another walker, the first I had seen.  He and his dog joined the trail behind me.  I felt uneasy and I walked fast to put some distance between us.  After a mile of power walking, looking back every few minutes to see if the stranger was still ‘following’ me, I decided my anxiety was ridiculous. I slowed down and waited for him to catch up so I could say hello.  It got me thinking about how sad it is that we are scared of our own kind.  I hadn’t worried once about the terrain, weather or wildlife, the only thing I was cautious of was other people.  You know, those weirdos who walk their dogs and follow hikers into the wilderness to rob them of their camping stoves and protein bars! As it turned out he never arrived, he must have taken a different path, I was a little gutted and a tiny bit relieved.

Though the path was over open moorland there actually was a path, not just a worn trail of grass but an actual path.  The going was easy and I made good ground.  Through this section, I thought of things I had done in the past, the things I had accomplished and the amazing places I had seen.  I did this, me, not anyone else.  Drive and self-belief had got me here and that’s something I don’t give myself enough credit for.  I was proud.

On and on and on!

The last few miles to Drymen dragged on, I was happy to finally see signs for the campsite.  I walked past a sign directing me to pitch my tent where ever I felt like it and someone would be around soon to collect my £5 fee.  No one ever came and I dropped a fiver in an honesty box I found by the shower block.  The campsite was busy, maybe 10 other tents.  I was the only solo hiker, everyone else traveling as couples or groups.  I was also the only English speaker on the site, seemed odd, this been the UK and all.  However I feel most at home among a mixture of nationalities, so I was happy.  I boiled up some pasta, inhaled it, chugged a pint of water and settled into my tent for the night.

Toasty in my tent.  Not!

I had purchased a thicker sleeping bag for this trip, so was looking forward to a cozy night in the tent.  How wrong was I?!  Come 2 am I was wide awake and shivering, I couldn’t believe how cold it was.  I listened to other stone-cold hikers turning on their sleeping mats and took comfort in knowing I wasn’t suffering alone. I put on some music and tried to drift off for a few more hours.

Click here for day two, Drymen to Sallochy.


Are you planning to hike the West Highland Way?  Drop a comment below if you have any questions and I’ll do my best to help you out.

If you’re feeling generous give this post a share using the social media icons below 🙂


-Kat 🏕


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  • Reply
    January 20, 2018 at 5:00 am

    Such hike, Super like! I wouldn’t mind going on such a hike all by myself when I grow up enough to be alone. You have a true adventurer inside. And I could relate with being a monkey mind. Wow, same pinch. A zillion thoughts cross my mind too at the same time and I always thought this has something to do with mental disorder.

  • Reply
    January 20, 2018 at 5:17 am

    I’ll definitely be adding this to my hiking bucket list! Also, I LOVE the phrase “monkey mind” hahaha, that’s definitely me!

    • Reply
      January 20, 2018 at 8:30 pm

      The West Highland Way is a great one for the bucket list, it’s a beautiful part of the world. 🙂

  • Reply
    Denny George
    January 20, 2018 at 5:34 am

    This seems like quite an adventure. While I’ve wanted to do a solo trek fir a long time, I never quite worked up the nerve to do it. Your post inspires me to go on one. The photos look great!

    • Reply
      January 20, 2018 at 8:29 pm

      Do it, you’ll love it! Start with a few solo day hikes and go from there 🙂

  • Reply
    January 20, 2018 at 6:49 am

    You are an adventurer! I travel solo but hiking solo…I am yet to. I love how determined you are! Nice photos as well.

    • Reply
      January 20, 2018 at 8:28 pm

      Give it a go, if you’re used to traveling solo you’ll love it! 🙂

  • Reply
    Sarah Shumate
    January 20, 2018 at 7:07 am

    Oh man, this is exactly the sort of thing I love to do the most. Miles of doing nothing but putting one foot in front of the other, all while surrounded by beautiful scenery? I’m so in!

    For a second there, though, I was all, “Never mind, not doing it!” until I read on and realized you weren’t talking about ACTUAL monkeys on the trail. 😉 I love that there is a term for this sort of chaotic brain activity because I suffer from it, too!

    • Reply
      January 20, 2018 at 8:23 pm

      This hike has some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen! I’d definitely recommend it if you ever find yourself in Scotland. Don’t worry though, there are no actual monkeys, just the odd Highland cow 🙂

  • Reply
    January 20, 2018 at 8:32 am

    Such a cool thing to do! Can’t wait to read about the rest of your adventure!

    • Reply
      January 20, 2018 at 8:20 pm

      Thanks, Sarah! Day 2 is up and I’m working on the rest right now 🙂

  • Reply
    Chris Behrsin
    January 20, 2018 at 1:51 pm

    I like the way you wrote this — it’s not just a physical adventure but also a personal adventure within. My wife and I have been planning longer hikes like this for a while (Hadrian’s Wall, The Wooden Architecture route in Poland), but somehow we’ve not got around to it. Your account of the West Highland Way might actually soon inspire us into action. Although, maybe not during winter :).

    • Reply
      January 20, 2018 at 8:19 pm

      I loved this walk, I would definitely recommend it! Hadrian’s Wall is on my list too. 🙂

  • Reply
    January 21, 2018 at 11:39 am

    Haha the monkey in Scotland really caught my attention and then I read what it meant , yup we all get those in our mind. Enjoyed reading details as I am yet to visit the beautiful Scottish highlands. Seems like you got good weather which month you think is the best to visit?

    • Reply
      January 21, 2018 at 4:46 pm

      I went in September and had really good weather for most of my hike. I’ve spoken to a few other people who have done it in September too and had the same thing, so it seems like that’s the best time to go! Also, I didnt have any trouble with midgies like a lot of people talk about on this hike, I think they are worse in the spring and summer. 🙂

  • Reply
    Rahat Arora
    January 21, 2018 at 6:21 pm

    Great post, I have also attended few adventure trips but not as a solo. So your experience describe everything about solo trek. Inspiring post.

  • Reply
    Ridima Mittal
    January 22, 2018 at 6:16 pm

    wow amazing article. I just loved the part where you said a journey of 96 miles starts with a single step. 🙂

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